When you install, follow ALL of Holleys instructions EXCEPT do not run the startup wizard, and do not touch the idle speed adjustment screw. We preset the idle speed screw as well as already pre-load the 13.5:1 idle tune into the ECU!

Here is a detailed installation video we made for the 1100 Sniper, there is some relatable information for your 2300 installation here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVT9caC3HZ8&t=705s

There are changes since this video regarding the fuel system!

If you have purchased our fuel system rather than the Holley fuel system that we used to use the install for that is now different!

With our new fuel system we only run a single fuel line to the back of the car. This simplifies installation and reduces cost of the extra high pressure fuel line. The new system utilizes the GM LS style fuel pressure regulator/filter. We still only recommend a dedicated return line to the bottom of the fuel tank. We do not recommend using a "Tee" on the bottom of the fuel tank for the return and feed. Although it is a lot easier than welding the included 6AN bung into the bottom of the tank we have seen the constant recirculation of the fuel cause pumps to overheat and loose fuel pressure. The new fuel system puts the entire fuel loop under the fuel tank opposite the brake master cylinder. Using the included 90 degree 6AN fittings you can assemble the pump and filter/regulator into a compact assembly sharing a single bolt to secure it to the floor pan area. Included is the WIX pre-filter as well. Clearance from the fuel outlet with a 90 degree fitting can be tight fitting to the chassis tunnel. We recommend installing the fuel outlet then reinstalling the tank. Install the fuel return on the bottom of the tank in a location that will not interfere with the steering column or the tie rods, etc. The low spot closest to the front bulkhead serves as an easy location to install. On a bus we locate it on the lower left side of the fuel tank near the bottom. On Bay window tanks we have drilled a hole in the panel covering the fuel tank for the fuel line to pass through to the tank for its return.

On our installations we run the supplied 3/8" fuel line down the passenger side of the pan, up in the channel that the body to pan bolts reside. We have found if you straighten out a 1/2" conduit clamp and zip screw it to the outer edge of the pan it holds the fuel line up in place (along with the fuel pump wire and CAN extension cable) very nicely and keeps it up above the bottom of the chassis away from harm.

With the single fuel line going into the Sniper, use the supplied 6AN cap to cap off the return outlet of the sniper. 

The throttle linkage is setup by us before shipment. The location of the offset throttle linkage arm is critical. You need to make sure the linkage from the manifold clears the offset arm at zero throttle, and the red linkage arm clears the linkage arm from manifold to offset bar. Pictures shown below for reference. To hold the arm from rotating, install the offset arm on the throttle body, followed by the internal lock washer, flat washer, then nyloc nut. Torque to 18ft/lbs. Adjust your throttle pedal/cable so at full throttle at the pedal you are not pulling beyond the needs of the throttle body to achieve full throttle. Doing so may pull the offset bar out of position. The linkage pieces we produce are stainless steel. Periodically lubricate the ball joints of the linkage with a lithium lubricant. 

Once you have the system installed, jump the relay to run the fuel pump and check for fuel leaks. Plug the relay back in and you're ready to fire it up. 

Here is a video that shows how the closed loop and the "Learn" work so you have a better understanding of how the system works. It goes to closed loop at 120 degrees, and goes to learn mode at 140. It may run rough up to 120 before it starts doing fuel correction but once that kicks in it will start responding and cleaning up the tune really quick. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Su1aTpDh8iY

And here's a video we made for the Holley Terminator system we came out with, but the process is the same. It shows how to change the tunes where we offer three different idle air/fuel ratios. 12.5, 13.5, and 14.5. I start it out with the 13.5 one which is most common, some engines like it, and all most will run on it. With it fully warmed up, try each one and see which one settles that gives you the lowest IAC (Idle Air Control) percentage on the screen when fully warmed up. The lower the percentage, the more it likes it. This is the alternative to basically a lean drop on a carb adjustment. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_61F1pRq9c

For an air filter in a bus we run the late model T1 bus intake elbow that is all rubber, and have that go to either the stock oil bath filter, or I do a 2" exhaust pipe piece from the auto parts store and put a cone filter on the end of that. The Sniper is slightly larger than the solex, so the rubber filters fit tight right on top. 

While the system first learns and adapts to your engine you may run out of learn percentage. General rule for me is anytime I see greater than 20% "Learn" show up on the screen at all it's a good idea to transfer the fuel table. To do this on the handheld start from the Home screen and go Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Learn. There you will see "Transfer Table". Select that but when it asks if you want to smooth the fuel table select cancel. It still transfers the table but it doesn't smooth the whole thing out. On some engines we have found the smoothing of the table takes away some of the learn from other areas. It's not a big deal if you select Yes, but it will work on relearning those areas it smoothed that is didn't need to. Bad wording on Holleys part to say "cancel", it makes it sound like you are not transfering the learn table, but you are.

Pictures posted below as well

Any questions that aren't covered in those video's, let me know

Thanks again,

Eric Allred

Red-E Motorsports